I have been collating some notes on Czech fashions but really a good way to give an overview is through my transformation. No, I haven't turned into some bizarre creature, it's just the small but not insignificant matter of modifying dress to start walking the walk, even if I'm not completely talking the talk yet.
Preface
In some ways I was very prepared for this trip (thanks no less to Big W Macquarie - and yes I am coping without it :) ), but, as always, there are matters that you don't (and can't) anticipate. I had never been to Czech before and I didn't really know what it would be like here. I am also having a different experience becausew I have:
1. Spent 3 weeks at the same base,
2. That base is not the old/new/lesser town of Prague City.
As a result of this it is fair to say that I see more average Praguers doing their everyday thing than the regular tourist would. I catch public transport to well outside the City Centre, I do my grocery shopping (even the extent of this is greater than normal for a tourist, I think) at a mall nearby - well off the tourist beat and I have spent time with the real locals - people born and living and working in Prague.
early in my stay I realised that if I was going to really live the life I would need to modify my clothing habits (no, I haven't taken to wearing wimpels, although you do see a number of nuns around the place).
Step 1 - The Bag
I brought 4 bags with me. Suitcase, hand luggage (businessy), Flod-up daypack and one of my dear Coco Nobue shoulder bags made from very nice Japanese fabric. I learned early in San Francisco that the hand luggage was a little cumbersome forr sightseeing and that Coco was a much better size. This was fine for San Francisco and I can get away with it in Sydney even though it usually draws compliments from total strangers (actually I have 2 in different colours because I love them so much).
However, Prague is as they say a different kettle of fish. They don't have anything like this here.In chain clothes shops there are plenty of metallic accessories at the moment, but certainly they have nothing as exotic as Coco. Yes, I got stares. Yes it was obviously out of place. So yes, I had to get something more local for the purpose.
On my first day of shopping I almost bought a floral tote for about $AU30. On closer inspection I decided it really wasn't worth it. The hunt continued (not a chore as it allowed me to explore many shops anjd arcades in Prague) and after a couple of days I found a suitable candidate on sale at Tesco at Narodni for about $AU6 (yes, really). It is dark blue, 100%polyester (looks like cotton though) and is pretty much in line with current trends. Plain, inconspicuous and holds all my papers, Lonely Planet Prague, map, camera, small water bottle etc... Stage 1, complete. [The bag is the one in my "self-portrait in lift" at the top of the page]
Stage 2 - Hair and make-up, and facial expressions
Hair
Well, I'm not ready to go the full Czech and go bright orange, needless to say it would be totally de rigeur to do so. Blonde is also popular and darker shades are acceptable also, although lighter is more common for sure.
Make-up
It was almost immediately obvious that most of the women here wear very little, if any, make-up. A few concessions were necessary. No more mascara. Definitely no eyeshadow, ever (not that I usually do anyway). And tone down the rest. I am not prepared to forego my SPF10 foundation, so that stays. Also, after "Australian Princess" I know that one must wear lipstick. Nailpolish on fingers and toes is quite acceptable.
Facial expressions
Having spent the previous three days in San Francisco with some ridiculous plastic grin on my dial, I was faced in Prague with a different standard. Public transport - no grins, smiles, laughing, upturned mouths. Neutrality is the order of the day. Unless, of course, you are conversing with friends or family. Otherwise no, no, no. Pubs are another matter even though they are the main place where business and political deals are done.
There is also a different set of rules for shops. A smile indicates interest in the goods on offer and should always be accompanied by a Dobry Den when you first enter the shop (can be accompanied by a nod too). And the equally important Na Skledanou/ Na Skled when you leave the store/have completed your supermarket transaction, as you walk away, the receipt of change can be accompanied by Dekuji (thanks). Variants are okay too. I've had Nazdar (hello) from a young supermarket checkout guy. Dobry den often comes out as '" 'ry den" or just "den". And thanks (phonetically) is sometimes "deeko-yo" or "dee-kay".
Stage 3 - Clothes and jewellery
Top tip: tone it down or go nuts.
There are a few schools of thought on dressing the part because there is no real set thing to wear. anything goes, from lots of orange, red trousers, orange trousers, lime cargo pants, lots of socks with surf sandals - socks are not obligatory in this way but are very common on people of all ages. Anything from badly mismatched patterns and colours to monochromatic affairs, and that old classic, denim on denim.
Shoes
You can't get Birkenstocks here, at all. Just cheap imitations. In fact, Martina asked me about mine, she said she liked my "hollandisch" shoes. I said actually they are German... So although I thought because I have been wearing them in Sydney for nearly 6 years now and saw them worn in East Germany 8 years ago that they might be the go here, no. They are so good for walking I can't not wear them though. My black specially purchased for the trip Volleys are about right for fitting in here, so they are getting a go too.
Jeans
I can't help it that my 2 pairs of wearable jeans are Levi's. Ideally jeans with no labels at all would be the go, 3/4 are also okay.
Jewellery
Less is more, or better. Often no watches. Very fine (lightweight) gold or everyday sterling silver. Very simple lightweight plain wedding bands and a distinct absence of flashy engagement rocks.
But does it work
Pretty much, yes. With these few modifications I have been able to pass myself off (is that too Trade Practices Act sounding?) as a local.
How do I know?
Well, there are some circumstances where you are spoken to in English regardless, namely at guided tour booking booths and on guided tours and in fast food shops.
However, now if I go into a shop they speak Czech to me. Also, yesterday on Wenceslas Square in a jewellery shop the assistant spoke Czech to me. I should add that I wasn't looking at the amber and garnet at the time. With obvious tourista during my visit there she just went straight to English.
I have had a street person/man rave at me in Czech, a market researcher accost me in Czech at the mall, been offered samples at the mall in Czech, been asked to sign up with Amnesty in Czech, and had many "conversations" with shop assistants in Czech.
The real killer: I had been going to a net cafe regularly (I have now found a cheaper one (1kc per minute!) just around the corner) and there is this guy who works there and even though I would ask for internet in English and be directed to an English computer (there are some in Czech and some in English) when I would go to pay at the end of my session he would tell me the amount in Czech! Short term memory or a good disguise???
I guess it doesn't hurt that I am half-Czech so my appearance is sort of within the acceptable range (this is a big range mind you, Czechs originating from Slavs and Celts) too. And now, if I could just learn to talk the talk, and it didn't freeze in winter, I might start to think about moving here... maybe.
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